eIrOcA

Palenque - Yaxchilan - Bonampak (Wednesday 05/09/07)

Anonymous (anonymous@undisclosed.example.com) — 2019-01-19T16:07:07+0000

Palenque - Yaxchilan - Bonampak (Wednesday 05/09/07)

For this hike it is imperative to have a chaffeur… get to Yaxchilan and Bonampak is a task for local people … you will be safer, but not without emotions.
Bring water down the road because there are not great places where to stop to drink.
This trip has occupied the entire day, but it was worth it. We started early, the sun had not risen, we made the breakfast under a thatched hut in the faint light of dawn (we were the first).

Yaxchilan

Usumacinta River

The region of Usumacinta and its tributaries acquires a great importance to the development of Yaxchilan, the main center in the early sixth century. This site is nestled in a strip of the river and knows its peak during the “Late Classic” with the JAGUAR dynasty whose reign and achievements are mentioned on the many carved monuments of the city, stems, altars, lintels. The last entry is dated early ninth century. Moreover, the lush vegetation that surrounded it makes Yaxchilan a magnificent panorama.

After two hours of travel we arrived at the border between Mexico and Guatemala the Usumacinta River, from there our driver become a boatman who, by river, took us to the site, after about an hour of navigation. The river is the source of livelihood for local people.
The boatman left us two hours to visit the site and we realized that there are few, it is really huge.
Shame not to have brought with us a stack, as this is the only site where it would be possible to do a few laps in the tunnels, in the company of bats, though!
From the main square an immense and slippery staircase that leads to the Great Acropolis.
Unlike other sites, here is all original, none of the buildings have been reconstructed to make revive the grandeur, but it's all very well preserved and very beautiful, surrounded by tropical jungle.
This time we are truly isolated, we are the first group to arrive at the site, and the only crowd that we are the howler monkeys that we hear all around in really lush jungle.

Yaxchilan

Residents of Yaxchilan

Yaxchilan

Main Square

Staircase

Great Acropolis

Yaxchilan

Bonampak

Cauchou tree

Bonampak, has preserved the most complete of all the monumental paintings Maya, is a site of medium importance discovered in 1946. It's very likely that in all the Maya sites were covered with painted walls that complete the decoration carved or modeled outwardly.

Bonampak you leave the car at about 8km before the site and take a car driven by the natives after to agree with them on price and time to tour the archaeological site, and this is where the chaffeur become useful again, he makes all the arragment with natives.
The last stretch of road is bumpy, it's a kind of Indian reservation, and only few people speak Spanish, main language is a local Mayan dialect, which obviously differs from those of neighboring areas.
On this site we had the chance to have a local guide (who speaks Spanish only), he has explained the history of the place, wars and local customs. He described us the various well-preserved frescoes in time.
He showed a cauchoutree where there was still evident where the incisions made to collect the liquid with which to make objects, including the ball for the game of pelota.

Bonampak

Paintings

⇐ Day 11: San Cristobal - Palenque

⇒ Day 13: Palenque - Campeche

Travels, Mexico, Yaxchilan, Bonampak

Mexico City (Tuesday 28/08/07)

Anonymous (anonymous@undisclosed.example.com) — 2019-01-19T16:07:07+0000

Mexico City (Tuesday 28/08/07)

Museum of Anthropology

Museum of Anthropology

Built in 1964 by Pedro Ramirez Vasquez, the structure revolves around a giant pylon that supports, by means of steel rods, the roof from which descends a scenic waterfall.
At the entrance stands a giant statue of the god Tlaloc. The rooms follow chronologically the evolution of pre-Columbian civilization, the museum has very clear approach that allows to understand the intricate interweaving of the various civilizations that have lived in these regions through time.
Archaeological and ethnographic collections relating to the various current Indian population are unparalleled. The museum has also a restaurant and a well-stocked bookshop.
Immediately after the taquilla, there is room on the right of temporary exhibitions, on which follows that of Mesoamerica, with the map of the location of the various centers and a comparison between the different pre-Hispanic cultures. in the Hall of Teotihuacan, thre is the copy of the Mural Tlalocan on which you look at the conception of the world beyond, there are some elements of the Temple of Quetzalcoatl, with the heads of the Plumed Serpent. The monolithic sculpture of 57 tonnes of water goddess Chalchiuhtlicue and, in a display case, encrusted with turquoise and coral, funeral masks.

Head of the plumed serpent

Statue of the goddess Chalchiuhtlicue

Funerary mask

The Sala Mexica is the most important room of the entire museum dedicated to the Aztec culture, in the opening it has a sculpture of an ocelot, which were placed the hearts of human sacrifices intended to fuel the Sun.
In the room there is the city of Tenochtitlan reconstructed model, the Aztec calendar, an 24 tons circular (a diameter of 3.60m) stone filled with reliefs and the statue of Coatlicue, of the goddess of Earth.

Aztec Calendar

Sculpture of an Ocelot

Statue of Coatlicue

Zoo

At the zoo we went a bit as a joke to do a short tour before heading towards the city center… the joke lasted several hours. The zoo is huge, an uncountable number of races from all continents including aviary and reptile house that we could not see since the zoo closes at 17:00 (as virtually all museums in Mexico) and all visitors must be out.
It was exhausting.

⇐ Day 3: Teotihuacan

⇒ Day 5: Mexico City - Puebla

Travels, Mexico, Mexico City, Museum of Anthropology

Tuxtla - San Cristobal De Las Casas (Sunday 02/09/07)

Anonymous (anonymous@undisclosed.example.com) — 2019-01-19T16:07:07+0000

Tuxtla - San Cristobal De Las Casas (Sunday 02/09/07)

We entered into Chiapas.

Chiapas

State of exceptional beauty and great ecological diversity. After the plateau of the valley of Oaxaca, you'll discover a mountainous region rich in wild rivers, deep canyons and virgins forests. It's also one of the poorest states of Mexico which has undergone significant changes in the next fifteen years.
Diverging interests of the indigenous people of Chiapas, refugees from Guatemala, the companies of exploitation of forests and the government, have put a strain on the fragile culture and economy of this state… Although the timing of the rebellion (pacifist and media based) supported by “sub commander Marcos” now is just a remeber, is recommended during this journey to stay on the main crowded and road.

The distance between Tuxtla and San Cristobal is not great, but to do this path it took a day because it was necessary to make a stop along the way to make a boat trip on the Rio Grijalva (Rio Grande de Chiapa) to cross the imposing Canyon of Sumidero.

Chiapa de Corzo

This small colonial city located on the banks of the Rio Grijulva has a beautiful place to walk. You can visit his beautiful Spanish fountain on zocalo (central square), the Temple of Santo Domingo, the small museum of “lacquer” and the frescoes in the town hall (Palacio Municipal).

For hiking in the Canyon of Sumidero, the launches expect that the number of people required to fill the boat, fortunately it did not last long, although ours was the first boat to leave that morning.

Chiapa De Corzo

Boats

Canyon of Sumidero

Canion of Sumidero

Gigantic natural canyon crossed by the Rio Grijalva. Chicoasen dam has transformed in 1981 into a large reserve. The canyon walls in some places reaches a height of 1km.

If it's a sunny day be sure to sprinkle them carefully the sunscreen, the breeze caused by the boat ride you will not feel the sun shining and you can hold nasty surprises.
Along the river you come across an area that locals call “El Tapon”.
In this area of the river, a strange game of currents collect all debris that sail along the river and during raining days fall from the canyon walls.
To cross “El Tapon” the boat had to make several maneuvers to not be entangled with the numerous floating logs.
It was amazing to see how the layer of waste allowed birds to walk on water of the river and also see that families are kept picking up the larger debris and then resell them as firewood.
If we were to pick you warm, be quiet, the boatmen have a habit of making a joke to all the tourists, a quick refreshing shower under a beautiful waterfall, where time has created several terraces covered with moss where the water falls.

Canion of Sumidero - El Tapon

Canion del Sumidero - cascata

San Cristobal de Las Casas

Toward San Cristobal

We go back into the car and starts to climb.
Founded in 1528 by Captain Diego de Mazariegos is located at 2120 meters altitude.
San Cristobal is a charming little colonial town surrounded by pine forests on the shores of a valley in the heart of the mountainous of the central region of Chiapas.
Following events of 1994, the military presence has been reinforced in recent years, this does not prevent you a peaceful and enjoyable stay in this city, where lives the largest indigenous community in Mexico.

⇐ Day 8: Oaxaca - Tuxtla Gutierrez

⇒ Day 10: San Cristobal and its surroundings

Travels, Mexico, Chiapas, Chiapa de Corzo, Canyon del Sumidero, San Cristobal

Faces of Mexico

Anonymous (anonymous@undisclosed.example.com) — 2019-01-19T16:07:07+0000

Faces of Mexico

Ecco il nostro viaggio in Messico …

You need to know

In winter the archaeological sites are open every day from 08:00 to 17:00 and until 18:00 in summer.
The museums are generally closed on Mondays.
The lunch time is from 14:00 to 15:00 or so.
Be prudent in indigenous regions with photographs, it is often forbidden to photograph the people for religious beliefs reasons. Respect the customs and manners!
The word Zocalo, is the term used to indicate the main square of the city.

Recommendations for driving

In Mexico, the road signs are generally the same as in Italy, but the indications are rather flimsy. The essential thing: to fill up with gasoline in the morning before leaving for anywhere.

Differences

Traffic lights are located just after the intersection, which is not very obvious.
In Mexico City, it is permissible to turn right also with a red light (or left, according to the direction of traffic), with all the necessary precautions.
In Mexico right of way does not exist. The vehicle that is on the main road takes precedence. A vehicle that must pass a slowdown after the junction had to give way to others, who go straight will take precedence over who turns, with regard to roundabouts go there in “Mexican” way.
In town the speed is 60km/hour and 80km/hour on road with high flow of traffic.
On the highways, the speed is 110km/hour.
Mexicans drivers, especially of the truck, use the courtesy to indicate with arrows the possibility of surpassing or potential hazards (four arrows). his is very useful on mountain roads with poor visibility!

Special precautions

On federal roads (those not subject to payment of tolls) you must pay particular attention:

to eople on foot or bicycles (without position lights)
to animals (cows, dogs, …) crossing or parked safely on the roads
to slowdowns (tope in Spanish) that are numerous and generally bad or just highlighted. Welcome to the roller coaster!
to never leave anything on vehicles parked in the street. If you visit a site, with the luggage full, it is recommended first to leave your car locked and in a secure park.

Roadside assistance

Highways, and touristy federal roads have a (ree service of mechanical assistance: the “green angels”, are easily recognizable by their green trucks bearing the logo of the Ministry of Tourism.

Our itinerary

Mexico City (Saturday 25/08/07)

Welcome to Mexico City, capital of the country, considered as the largest city in the world with its approximately 23 million inhabitants, all is well positioned at a high altitude, 2240m above sea level, this means that even in warmer periods in Mexico City the temperatures are very mild.

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Mexico City (Sunday 26/08/07)

You can not see all of this huge city in a single day!
Mexico City often suffer from bad publicity even by tour operators. The tourist areas of the city and the districts themselves are not so dangerous as they say. However, it is better not to walk around the city wearing valuables and be careful.
The city traffic is very intense. When you do not know the city the best means of transport is by taxi. Taxis in front the hotels are recommended because the drivers are bilingual and can wait during your visits. Simply agree on a price before departure according to your itinerary.
To get an idea of how is the everyday live in Mexico City is absolutely necessary to use one of the many buses that “fly” in the city traffic. They are numerous and all crowded, the peculiarity is that there are not “stops”, wherever you find one, just make a sign and you can literally “jump” on board. To use the bus requires a fair amount of balance in order to remain standing, and a greater amount of agility and coordination for both go down and, above all, to go up (the brakes are used very little).

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Teotihuacan (Monday 27/08/07)

For reasons of traffic you should visit Teotihuacan in the morning. For convenience, we endorsed one of the many taxi drivers affiliated with the hotel, and it was good.
As a first step took us to the place of a cooperative living by making Obsidian objects and multicolored fabrics made of cotton and agave. They shown us the working of obsidian, how to build cord from the agave and how to extract the Pulche, agave lymph, which can be drunk as it is slightly alcoholic (not bad after all).
Subsequently, the driver took us to the Pyramid of the Moon and he waited us at the end of the Way of the Dead, but only after making a long introduction to the site and having us hear the cry of an ancient extinct bird, a strange acoustic effect produced clapping in the middle of the squares of some archaeological sites (also at Chichen Itza).

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Mexico City (Tuesday 28/08/07)

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Mexico City - Puebla (Wednesday 29/08/07)

After the largest urban area in the world, we wnet to the magnificent colonial cities, several pre-Hispanic sites (Aztec, Zapotec, Mixtec Maya), the stunning scenery and indigenous regions still preserving their traditions.

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Puebla - Oaxaca (Thursday 30/08/07)

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Oaxaca - Monte Alban - (Friday Mitla 31/08/07)

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Oaxaca - Tuxtla Gutierrez (Saturday 01/09/07)

So far our journey has proceeded in mountain areas (Mexico City is located at 2240m above sea level), but this 550km shift has led us to the capital of Chiapas only 542m above sea level, the thermal shock was considerable and the humidity stifling when we crossed a vast wetland.

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Tuxtla - San Cristobal De Las Casas (Sunday 02/09/07)

We entered into Chiapas.

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San Cristobal and its surroundings (Monday 03/09/07)

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San Cristobal - Palenque (Tuesday 04/09/07)

Be careful on this road which is full of curves, slippery and practically paved with “Topes” (bumps).
In this stage we did most unpleasant encounters, nothing to worry about, but we met groups of kids who tend ropes along the road, near the Topes (but not only) in order to stop the car and try to sell fruit or whatever. Not worrying, but very sad, we have often been afraid to let them hurt as they surround the car.

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eIrOcA

Palenque - Yaxchilan - Bonampak (Wednesday 05/09/07)

Palenque - Yaxchilan - Bonampak (Wednesday 05/09/07)

Yaxchilan

Bonampak

Mexico City (Tuesday 28/08/07)

Mexico City (Tuesday 28/08/07)

Museum of Anthropology

Zoo

Tuxtla - San Cristobal De Las Casas (Sunday 02/09/07)

Tuxtla - San Cristobal De Las Casas (Sunday 02/09/07)

Chiapas

Chiapa de Corzo

Canyon of Sumidero

San Cristobal de Las Casas

Faces of Mexico

Faces of Mexico

You need to know

Recommendations for driving

Differences

Special precautions

Roadside assistance

Our itinerary

Mexico City (Saturday 25/08/07)

Mexico City (Sunday 26/08/07)

Teotihuacan (Monday 27/08/07)

Mexico City (Tuesday 28/08/07)

Mexico City - Puebla (Wednesday 29/08/07)

Puebla - Oaxaca (Thursday 30/08/07)

Oaxaca - Monte Alban - (Friday Mitla 31/08/07)

Oaxaca - Tuxtla Gutierrez (Saturday 01/09/07)

Tuxtla - San Cristobal De Las Casas (Sunday 02/09/07)

San Cristobal and its surroundings (Monday 03/09/07)

San Cristobal - Palenque (Tuesday 04/09/07)

Palenque - Yaxchilan - Bonampak (Wednesday 05/09/07)

Palenque - Campeche (Thursday 06/09/07)

Campeche - Uxmal - Merida (Friday 07/09/07)

Merida - Chichen Itza - Cancun (Saturday 08/09/07)